DIRT BIKE STUNT

Tech How-To
Just as you wouldn't go wring out the motor before break-in, you shouldn't ride a new bike without prepping it. If you do, you may not pay the price after the first few rides, but the tab will come due. When the bike is showroom clean the basic prep and setup takes less than half the time it would if the bike were dirty. So bite the bullet and get it done.

While you're handling the basic greasing and checking, spending a few dollars wisely can save you big bucks later in the moto or further down the trail. This bike is one of those leftover '06 bargains available at the moment. Even though it isn't an '08, it's brand-new. Every step we took with this bike applies to any year or brand, but take the time to learn about the brand you choose. Different bikes may need different weaknesses taken care of. This Honda didn't require the bolts holding the plastic to be thread-locked, but some brands might. The idea is to give your bike the prep it needs. Off-road prep would be more dedicated, and it would include flat protection and bike protection items. The key is to take care of any issues before you get the bill for ignoring it.

01
Starting with a new, clean machine makes the job of prepping the bike easier and faster. If you plan on adding protective products or making changes, be sure you have the products, chemicals and parts that you need before beginning.

02
We decided to dive in head first. We removed all the parts that needed grease before we began putting things back together. The key items were the steering head, linkage and swingarm pivots.

03
Steering head bearings look like car wheel bearings but face different problems. You can pack them solid with grease, but the main point is to immunize them from water that will get to them thanks to the prevalence of pressure washers.

04
When the linkage and swingarm pivot bearings are all clean and moisture-free, they just need good grease. Slide the inner collar over and grease one side of the bearing, then slide it to the other side and grease it. Easy and clean.

05
After lubing the bearings, we installed and torqued the swingarm and linkage. We then removed the chain adjuster bolts and put anti-seize on the threads to avoid having corrosion weld them into the swingarm. Repeat this step often.

06
The brake pedal pivot has no bearing and the pedal itself is generally fairly soft aluminum. Grease the pivot and bolt well to prevent the pivot from wearing prematurely.

07
The brake pads must be removed to pull the brake calipers from their caliper mounts. Get some grease down inside these holes with the rubber boots sealing them. Make sure to clean up any you slopped on the outside.

08
You'll also need grease on these pins. The caliper is supposed to float on these pins to center itself over the disc. If the pins dry out, the caliper won't float, and it will generate a lot more heat than it should have to deal with.

09
Make sure the rubber boots are seated when you put the caliper back on the mount. Use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads of the brake pad retaining pins. You don't normally remove the pin that often, and it can corrode to the caliper.

10
To remove the swingarm we had to unscrew these hose guides from it. The screws holding the guides are small and don't engage many threads, so we used a thread-locking compound on them.

11
This is the perfect time to install SealSavers (www.sealsavers.com) or Shock Sox (www.bermmx.com) to protect the fork seals. The front tire throws rocks at the back of the fork leg and the dings ruin seals. These products triple seal life.

12
Most bike-prep services don't include tightening the spokes. This Honda had spoke tension that was fine, but going a little tighter doesn't hurt. Work around the wheel, making adjustments no greater than 1/4 turn at a time. We went around each wheel twice.

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